Given the weather forecast (cold and wet) and word from other riders about how cold the next stretch has been, we decided to take a zero day in Banff. We already had a campground reserved, Tunnel Mountain Village 1, a ways from town up a hill.
We met PJ for breakfast and saw him off heading south on the divide, then packed swimsuits and took a bus to the Banff Upper Hot Springs, run by the national park. We spent about an hour soaking in the outdoor pool while the weather changed from sunny to raining and back. After lunch and picking up groceries, we pulled our bikes and gear out of the hostel storage area and rode to our campsite, setting up our tent in a hurry as it rained and hailed.
Firewood is provided in this campground, but it was damp. In the neighboring campsite, a family in an RV helped us get our campfire going. As the rain came down and we prepared dinner under a fur tree, they invited us in to dry off. Around the same time, Matt Kadey, originator of the Great Northern Bikepacking Route, rolled into camp. He has been riding a segment in the opposite direction from us, and we’ve exchanged some emails. We didn’t think it would work out to meet, so it was a nice surprise when it did. Matt has been in heavy snowfalls, and he shared trail info, recommendations, best segments, and stories.
We enjoyed the hospitality of our neighbors from near Edmonton, 3 generations — Peter, Elaine, their daughter, her husband Kevin, 2 cute toddlers, and a dog. After we warmed up in their RV, we went back to chat with Matt. Snow was accumulating in big wet flakes, covering tents, picnic tables, and foliage. A group of cow elk passed by. The warmest spot to talk was the restroom. Some people in campsites managed to keep fires going while others cooked under the restroom overhang. We could hear trains in the distance. It’s cool and kinda crazy to meet the person who put this route together and exchange stories while warming up in the men’s room at a camp site. We crawled into our sleeping bags at 9pm though it would be light for a while longer. Rain and snow were still coming down.
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